Still working on the details of the new shop. “Hey Darin. It isn’t idea but they are very similar looking woods. Hey Rob. Something that dries quickly, doesn’t absorb too deep, and potentially obscures the grain a bit. With their golden color, light maple cabinets can instantly warm and brighten any kitchen. If you're a commitment-phobic shopper, choosing interior flooring can feel like a never-ending process. LATIN: ACER RUBRUM ORIGIN: NORTH AMERICA. Many thanks in advance for your thoughts, A, Well you can certainly add dye to the mixture to change the color. Sounds like maybe he used too heavy a cut of shellac in his sanding sealer. I hope the General Finishes is the answer to my woes. The gel stain however, went on much more evenly, and I found it to be very forgiving. You will have the ability to acquire the cabinets of the color and sizes … I work for a premier guitar company and have stained my fair share of maple! Then over top of that we installed beautiful white maple butcherblock countertops. I wish that I had read your web site a couple of weeks ago. Then, apply your topcoat of choice. :) Seriously though, I think wood furniture can and should feature the amazing variety mother nature has to offer. I used a the pre stain wood conditioner from minwax since that is what our local store had. I would like white floors (semi gloss) for a bedroom and thought I would try to get this by staining maple wood white. I would fill the dent first, sand flush, then hit the surface with your conditioner followed by the stain. You can read about it here: Use this material before the stain and then follow SW’s instructions. And yes, if you find the time with your young family I’m sure people would like to see you tackle this particular subject. Maple is an excellent hardwood to use if you are going to finish with paint. Select a bright red ceramic or vinyl tile to add a pop of warm color to the room. Maybe I just didn’t wipe it enough at the end of the second coat. Just about any clear finish will do that for you. It tends to be a white hue with pitch fleck and mineral streaks adding some reddish-brown tints to it, though the color will deepen some with age. That’s on a whole different scale so the tools/materials/techniques used might differ. I find that little bit of lacquer helps lock down the color. Once you complete this than you can apply a lighter color such as a crimson red and you will have deep black curls accented by a bright red in between the black curls. Trying to come up with a game plan. I really have no idea what the issue is from your description. Hey Denny. Also, does the gel stain work best, do you have a recommendation for a darker brown look, No yellow or red tones. :). Once that dries, then I would switch to the lacquer toner mix. Well once you have a color on the surface, you can’t really go lighter….unless you remove the color. finish started peeling immediately, before the job was finished. Thanks. I would contact a floor coatings expert for something like that. What do I do? I just had my house built and went with very dark maple kitchen cabinets and they look hidious. Unfortunately, there is no “easy” way that I know of. In order to match it up I would need to do a little trial and error testing to see what get us as close as possible. So I feel for your situation. Well I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but sanding scratches really suck. Thank you, Hi Julia. Should I completely sand it down to the wood? But again, I recommend using what you already have, preventing the blotch, staining, and then topcoating. My question is in regards to finding a gel stain that matches the gunstock colour by Minwax. Came out brown instead of orange. Do you know how we can do that? And no, they don’t dissolve with water contact. That said, waterborne finishes are getting better and better every year. After reading several of your posts and other website’s comments I am thinking this is not what I should do. That way you don’t have to buy a bunch of cans of stain you’ll never use. Oh and keep in mind you might just be able to use a water-based dye to the same end. I would probably start by using some Charles Neil blotch control, followed by a dark brown dye, and finishing up with General Finishes Java gel stain. A good cry is healthy once in a while. Maple Wood Color Scheme. Hopefully it can be done without calling in the big floor sanders. I am most likely the least familiar with sanding,staining, well woodwork in general than anyone on this forum. I am refinishing a maple table and chairs – it has the old “orange” wood tone to it and would like to get it back to that – but of course cleaner than it was. After reading the entries above, I’ve wondered if its possible to add a thin coat of shellac now and continue staining to get my darker colour, or must I start over. The lack of visible pores leaves a much smoother surface on all cuts. In Darin’s case, from the “orange” tone he describes, maybe a slight amount of blue-green, green, or yellow-green tint in the shellac sanding sealer would produce the brown color he wants in the finished (pun intended) product. But you might try the Prarie Wheat color as that seems to have a little more orange in it. I picked maple because I want a smooth clean look and maple has the least visible wood grain. Would you suggest I lay down shellac before I spray the dye to prevent bloches showing thru the dye. Even Lee Valley, (and there head offices are in Canada). Not only was there extreme blotching, but the uneven hold was nearly universal, pooling also occurred. My preferred way to deal with this is to use Charles Neil’s blotch control. Designed and developed by Underscorefunk Design. Honestly, I haven’t done many espresso finishes so I would have to experiment a little myself. * GEL STAIN. Gel stain, gel stain, gel stain. I just need a mix recipe to do this right. Any product claim, statistic, quote or other representation about a product or service should be verified with the manufacturer, provider or party in question. It is such a nice job, I don’t want to foul it up with a poor stain results. Natural wood colors can also be based on the degree of saturation (meaning how dark a color is – high color or light pale) as well as transparency (meaning matte and glossy), divided into other groups. Uhg. In fact, using light maple for both the cabinets and flooring can give your kitchen a bright, fresh look that works well with a variety of wall colors. Maple boards can look beautiful except for that one stinkin’ area where the grain does something funky. – For the best). And if thats not strong enough, start using a little pigment in the mix. Please help me – these stairs are the focal point in my house and they look terrible. actually, i went ahead and put an even layer of mahogany danish oil and left the piece over night, and did that for 3 nights and it has reached the desired goal. Thank you. And even it it doesn’t fill it completely, I personally think a natural-looking dent is better than a perfectly flat filled surface. From what I have been reading on this website, I think the solution to staining my birch/ poplar cabinet in a dark walnut color is to spray a fast drying dye on it. Hello Marci Joy. Am the new owner of an apartment that has its original maple floors from 1903. As a PS, why are all the cheap customers so particular?? Just a hypothesis, I don’t actually know if that’s true. The colors shown are for reference purposes only. But I am not the cabinet guy so I cant tell you exactly for sure all the steps taken during preperation.sorry. But you might look into Generals Finishes Candlelight color. We had our kitchen remodeled about two years ago. I need some direction for what type of color might be used and I would like to use the gel stain as there are lots of spindels and such. Wet the wood with water before staining and let dry, this opens the grain to accept the stain evenly, then sand out with 320 grit going with the grain. My suggestion would be to sand the whole thing down again and just make sure its sanding properly. But stripping could help get a great deal of the color out of the wood. Let it dry over nite before application. The grayer areas are not so easy. I would probably drop all the way back down to the lowest grit you started with. Colonial Maple Classic Wood Interior Stain provides a rich natural color that beautifully enhances the wood grain. The color will be expresso (dark brown). I had to go through some glue and self leveling compound, which is why I started so low. Should I just give it a light sanding and then use a gel stain on top to achieve the darker desired colour? A stain is applied on wood to change the color and protect your cabinets from damage. The environmentally-friendly stuff is a little safer and easier to work with, but might not work as well. So that room we started first after three continuous days of sanding we still have some lines so we will sand some more. So many times I will start off with a dye and see where it takes me. I wouldn’t add any shellac as that will actually make it harder to get the color you are after. I say use whatever one you have the most experience with and are most comfortable working with. Looking for advice. What do you recommend? I use a much-thinned cut, about 1/2 lb or less, and use scraps to determine if the particular boards need an additional coat of sealer (usually So at this stage, its probably worth a shot to try it before stripping the whole thing down again. I have a maple front door that I have sanded down to the bare wood. so, i did a carving with maple, and usually when i carve i use a danish oil stain kind of thing for my stuff, but seems the grain is too tight to allow any stain to be absorbed into the maple. He then held up his thumb to display a beautiful dark walnut nail and proclaimed, “but wear gloves if you use alcohol!” And I would add; don’t drown your sorrows and start drinking it;-). On three different occasions, the cabinet company removed the cabinets to refinish those that were peeling. I do not no for sure about alcohol. I had a very fussy customer who wanted a dark stain and didn’t want to spend money, so i finished myself (to keep the cost down). This might be a good question to throw to the folks in the forum: He writes: I am trying to finish maple to a brown appearance. Blonde shellac is best. thank you very much, Denise. Your recommendations are most appreciated. I have maple cabinets they were stained but was not aware that veneers were use to apply the stain and the veneers are coming loose can the veneers be re glue or can I remove the veneers and paint them instead. Furniture makers have used stains and varnishes for centuries, both to enhance the appearance of the grain and to change the color of the wood. What is the difference between the wood conditioner and shellac? There’s really no way I can answer that for you. (When we removed a built in bookcase, it was clear that the floor had been stained a warm, golden honey color before it was white.) I have maple cabinet ,having hard time getting dark cherry stain.can you pls. What do you suggest as lacquer? The important thing is that its a gel formula. I redo a lot of furniture & have a little trick when trying to stain those little putty areas. Selective sanding usually doesn’t yield very good results. lol. We just purchased new maple cabinets that are unfinished and not yet installed. Thanks for the feedback.The headboard is large and has been pieced together with small headless nails and dowels. To some extent, yes, it could lessen the visual impact of the curl. then apply stain <—- I'm still confuse about these water,oil,gel based stain but I'm planning to use polyshade. Minwax and Old Masters don’t carry it. Just reading aout Darins letter and the fact that he used a gel stain might be the route to take. thanks! What wood were you using and what was the stain product? What is your thought on applying a coat or even two of brown mahogany over the Java? Hi Marc, Maple wood is characterized for its white color and its tight and even grain. This color combination was created by user Rocco. I have never stained maple before and am a bit confused on exactly what steps to follow. Not do much on the other. The legs and chairs are a bit ornate (1930s) and the original finish was a bit darker in the grooves. American Hardwoods: Mix- Don’t Match –Wood Textures and Colors; Experts Across the U.S. Urge Diversity in Design. But since you can’t really “remove” color with this product, its sounds to me like the only feasible thing to do is try to tone down the red with brown, as you suggested. The more experience I get in woodworking, the more I realize I need to learn more. It looks horrible, uneven in the middle of the door and very dark and the edges are light but still not attractive. By the third time, it looked as if they’d fixed whatever was wrong and the color was beautiful, but the peeling started again not long after the entire job was completed. Since you paid good money for this thing, I really think it is the contractor’s responsibility to get someone in there that knows what they are doing. So if the crack turns out a little bit darker, it tends to look like a natural grain line. I’m still a novice and while I took some care to check from piece to piece that the grain wasn’t drastically different, there are panels that start out dark and more figured and by the other end of the panel it’s cleaner, clearer, and more uniform. I used poplar for the faceframes, drawer fronts, and door frames with 1/2 inch birch for the door panels. Should I use a controler before staining the cabinet. Is there anyway to fix this, short of completely sanding the table back down to bare wood? I was mistaken on the color my wife actually prefers the red undertone. Sounds like a potential preparation issues to me. I want to go as dark as I can but still be able to see the grain. I have worked all summer and ut to now on my entertainment center and I do not want to screw it up at the end. Hi Alyssa. (not my choice, the client’s) if i’d known that is what they had wanted, i certainly wouldn’t have used maple. :). Maple (Red Leaf) Overview. It’s a little tricky to give you an exact product recommendation since everyone’s perspective on color is a little different. I have several more doors to do please help.. they are beautiful Maple stained, but we are having issues with the stain flaking off or peeling off.. what is causing this? Upon applicaton of the second coat of stain, blotches appeared on a few of the doors fronts and some of the cabinet face frames. I am not a sophisticated woodworker but I built some cabinets and stained them Rust-oleam “Kona” with excellent results. We intended to stain everything a light gray. Now consider that just about any finish brings color to the wood. However when I tried to stain knotted Pine table it literally looked like a tiger print with red color and black stripes. I’ve tried several brands of putty, tried tinting the putty first, tried a mahagony color filler as well as a natural color, all to no avail, they just come out very brown, almost black. If so, is there a better way to get a more even finish while still acquiring the rich cherry colour? If you want more protection and you don’t mind the wood yellowing to some extent, consider an oil-based poly. Honestly Julie, I hate doing the monday morning quarterback thing on other woodworkers and finishers. Custom made Maple. Although neither one of them will be very fun. I have done the treads and risers. The drawback is that it has taken me a while to learn to blend the base coat and knowing how colors layer was quite a learning curve. My plan is to spray with an alcohol mixed dye. I’ve tried transtint dark walnut dye (resulting in a dark ugly 80’s guitar look). 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